D15B2 -> D16A6 DPI -> MPI swap (EDIT2 -WYKRES !)

[Pati]

http://moto.allegro.pl/show_item.php?item=37557900
sprawdz to

[elmer]

Niestety Kilej nie chce sprzedac tego silnika na czesci

[ARTX]

Niestety Kilej nie chce sprzedac tego silnika na czesci

tak czy inaczej chyba 700zeta to nie takie wielkie pieniadze :roll:

[Pati]

to kup caly i przełóż.

[Nevada]

ok, już wiem jak wygląda ten resistor box, takie srebrne pudełko wielkości paczki fajek z radiatorem

Elmer: dagadaj się z Kilejem, obiecasz że coś mu dasz czego nie da mu żadna dziewczyna i pogoni Ci agragat za trzy stówki... 8)

[elmer]

Tak chyba zrobie, zreszta jest mi winny przysluge za zamiane masek

W miedzy czasie znalazlem nastepujace info:

4G DX to ZC wiring conversion
by kenji

In order to convert your dual point injection DX to multi-point injection you will need 4 injector plugs, an injector resistor box, extra wire, a wire stripper/cutter, heatshrink and/or electrical tape, and some patience. Also, when doing this conversion I would highly recommend soldering all connections and heatshrinking them. If you do not have access to heatshrink neatly wrapped electrical tape will do just fine. It is also extremely helpful to have an extra multi-point injection engine harness laying around to take plugs from (i.e. injector plugs, injector resistor box plug, and distributor plug). Listed below is a straightforward and easy to follow set of instructions to help you complete your DX to ZC swap:

DX to ZC

Inside car @ ECU

· Pins B10 and B12 are empty. Unused pins can be taken from B2 or B11. Some models have a wire located at B12.

· Cut orange and white wires off at C1 and C2 and connect them to wires added at B10 and B12. Orange-B10. White-B12. Leave enough wire for next step.

· Run wires from C1 and C2 (direct ECU connection) into the engine compartment. Label these wires for later use.

· Cut wires at A3 and A7 leaving plenty of wire. Run these wires into the engine compartment and label them for later use.



Outside car

· Transfer DX wiring harness over to ZC engine.

· TPS and EACV plugs are too short and must be extended.

· Be sure to switch green/white and yellow/white wires on TPS



Injectors and injector resistor box

· Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DX injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.

· Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).

· Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).

· Connect the A3 wire to the #2 injector (red wire).

· Connect the A7 wire to the #4 injector (yellow wire).

· Connect the 4 red/black wires from injector resistor box to each injector.



Cylinder position sensor

· Connect C1 to blue/green wire on cylinder position sensor plug.

· Connect C2 to blue/yellow wire on cylinder position sensor plug.

Thats it. Double check everything and start it up. Good luck!

Oraz drugi tekst:

DX to ZC wiring conversion
From: Matt Blodgett

The following are the modifications needed to convert an’88-’91 Civic/CRX 1.5l DX wiring harness (manual transmission only) to an’86-’91 ZC motor.

The first area of modification is at the ECU. A DX model will not have any connection at pins B10 and B12 on plug C452 (The middle ECU plug). Therefore, to connect wires at this point you will need extra connector pins to add to the DX plug. These connectors can be carefully grafted from unused pins. Some models will already have wires at B12, in this case you will cut the existing wire off and use that terminal directly. B10 will be empty, a wire for this space can be grafted from unused pins such as B2 or B11. Once you have a place to connect wires at B10 and B12 you will cut the orange and white wires off of pins C1 and C2 on connector C453 and connect them to B10 and B12. NOTE: These wires can be connected in any order because the measurement is resistance, but the book says orange to B10 and white to B12. Be sure to leave enough wire on C1 and C2 for the next step! The next connection is to run wires from C1 and C2 to the engine compartment for later use, label them C1 and C2. The last modification to the ECU harness is for the multi-point fuel injection. On connector C451 pins A1,A3,A5 and A7 are for connection to the fuel injectors. The DX only has dual point injection, therefore, pins A1 and A3 have yellow wires for the auxiliary injector and pins A5 and A7 have red wires for the main injector. Within the DX wiring harness the two reds connect to each other and the two yellows connect to each other. This is why only one red wire and one yellow wire come out in the engine compartment. To support the multi-point fuel injection you must cut the connection at A3 and A7, again leaving excess wire for further connection. Now run new wires from A3 and A7 to the engine compartment and label them A3 and A7. With these modifications in place you can successfully use an ‘86-’89 Acura Integra (RS, LS or GS) ECU or an ‘88-’91 Honda Civic/CRX Si ECU.

Part two of the wiring modification is in the engine compartment. With the DX motor out of the car and the ZC motor next to it, carefully transfer the DX wiring harness over to the ZC. You should be able to make all the connections. If a wire is too short (TPS and EACV usually), remove some of the flex loom and it’ll fit. You will end up with three extra plugs, C117 and C118 which are DX injector plugs and C115 which is the DX’s Tandem Valve Control Solenoid Valve. Install the motor into the car and continue.

To make the rest of the connections, the ZC motor must have plugs and excess wire on the injectors as well as the Cylinder Sensor which is on the end of the exhaust cam. To wire the ZC’s fuel injectors you will need the yellow and red wires from C117 and C118 respectively and the two wires you ran from the ECU labeled A3 and A7. Assuming the ZC’s injector wires are intact with excess wire make the following connections: [Connect the yellow wire from C117 to the ZC’s #1 injector which should be a brown wire. Connect the red wire from C118 to the #3 injector which should be a light blue wire. Connect the wire you labeled A3 to the #2 injector which should be a red wire. Then, connect the wire you labeled A7 to the #4 injector which should be a yellow wire.] With all of these connections in place you will need to connect the power leads to each injector. These leads MUST be wires through an injector resistor, which is basically a 6 ohm resistor for each injector to reduce the switching load on the ECU. You may use any Honda injector resistor, as they are all 6 ohms. As old as a first generation CRX Si or as new as a ’97 Accord. For my application I used one out of an ’87 Acura Integra. The resistor is a small aluminum box, usually with a heatsink, that has five wires coming from it. Four of these wires will be the same color, connect one of these to each . injector, and the fifth wire needs to be connected to the two yellow/black wires from C117 and C118. Now that you have completed the injector wiring you need to hook up the Cylinder Sensor. This is simple, just connect the wires you marked C1 and C2 to the blue/green and blue/yellow wires on the Sensor. The last modification is VERY important! You must reverse the green/white and yellow/white wires on the Throttle Position Sensor, because the DX’s turns backwards.

There you have it. It may seem like a lot of work, but when faced with a complete car harness swap, these modifications are a piece of cake

Widac z tego, ze warto wziac sobie wtyczki z silnika dawcy, calej wiazki nie ma co przekladac. Ogolnie z tego co czytam, to taka operacja musi w miare prosta Tutaj jeszcze schemat ktory byl razem z ktoryms tych tekstow:



Pozdrawiam

[Nevada]

****... czemu oni wszędzie opisują przekładke z silnika ZC?

to jest DOHC suka przecież, mam nadzieje że jak dawcą jest SOHC to nic się nie zmienia...

części już mam, cały kolektor + dolot, komp, kawał wiązki, mam nadzieje że będzie GIT

[Pati]

ZC są także nazywane silniki D16Zx

[Nevada]

więcej info, więcej problemów...
http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/mpfi.html jeszcze musze dobrac aparat zapłonowy, mocowanie kolektora

edit: już wszystko mam 8)
teraz czekam na wolny dzień

[Nevada]

ZROBIONE !

Robiłem z opisu powyżej i do pomocy skorzystałem z tego rysunku poglądowego co Elmer wrzucił.
Śmieszne jest to że na ten rysunek trzeba patrzeć troche po chińsku, a dokładnie na wtyczki- patrzymy od strony kabli, a nie od dziurek (mam nadzieje że wiecie o co chodzi )

Robota:
Kolory kabli się zgadzały, troche lutowania, kombinowania, itd.
Wszystkie części miałem, chociaż uważam że mocowanie kolektora można było zostawić stare.
Ja bonusowo wymieniłem linke gazu: DPI jakieś 120cm MPI 50cm (nie trzeba tej długiej jakoś zawijać na maksa, tylko krótka od Si i luzik)

Najlepsze że odpalił za pierszym razem :twisted:

Nie jestem pewnien czy nie popieprzyłem troche w tych wężykach podciśnieniowych, ale jeździ (mech zweryfikuje soon).

Poza tym została mi wolna wtyczka przy nowym kolektorze i też musze się tym zająć :lol: (nie mam gdzie jej podłączyć)

Czas operacji: 6 godzin, od wjazdu do wyjazdu z garażu.

Wrażenia z jazdy: :twisted:
LEPIEJ, lepsza reakcja na gaz, duuużo lepszy dół, jest moc od 3 tysięcy, i jest jej więcej w całym zakresie obrotów.

Odcięcie licznikowo 7500 RPM (poprzednio 7000).
Jestem *****iście zadowolony z tej operacji.

Wielkie dzięki dla kumpla Robsona za profi lutowanie.
Zdjęć jest mało i tylko z końcówki, gdyż aparat nie przybył na czas.
Zdjęcia wkrótce.