Czesc panie i geje :)
Jesli bylo 10tys razy to przepraszam a biorac pod uwage ze to popularny mod to na bank bylo.
Ale ja naprawde nie moge znalesc takiego tematu.
Potrzebje wykonac sobe przejsciowke z obd2 na obd1. Prosze o instrukcje jak wykonac kostki (jakis patent z poxilina kolega robil kiedys) i jak poprzekladac przewody.
Znalazlem jedynie instrukcje do obd0 na obd1...
Dziekuja z gory.
Zdrowka :)
Znalazlem pare informacji..
fotki i schematy. Tylko co z tym teraz zrobic moge?
Sorry ze linki w takiej formie, telefonem nie jestem w stannie wklejac linkow jak nalezy.
kostka obd1
http://global-4-lvs-turing.opera-mini.net/hz17-16/29412/0/-1/www.dodo-upgrades.nl/image002.jpg
kostka obd2a
hondaswap.com/attachments/6d1100619215-iacvfix.jpg
opis pinow dla obd2b (Chyba)
Nomenclature: ACC - A/C relay ACS - A/C switch ALTC - Alternator relay, for control purposes, not present on all ECU’s ALTF - Alternator switch BKSW- Brake switch, for control purposes, not present on all ECU’s CKF - Crankshaft speed, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives 12 pulses by LED during each crank shaft rotation CKP - Crankshaft position, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives several pulses (~20?) during each cam shaft rotation CYP - Cylinder position, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives one pulse during each cam shaft rotation DLC - Diagnostic connector, communication signal to the 3 wire connector next to the SCS connector ECO - ECONOMO light ECT - Engine coolant temperature EGRL - Unknown function (probably related to EGR) ELD - Electric load detection, not present on all ECU’s ESOL - Unknown function (probably OBD1 EGR) FANC - Fan relay, for control purposes, not present on all ECU’s FLR - Fuel relay IACV - Idle air control valve, controls the 2 wire type IACV valve IAT - Intake air temperature ICM - Ignition pulses, 1 is always present, 2 can be ignored IGP - Battery feed, only active when key is turned IMO. - Checks IMO code of the key and activates FLR if correct INJ - Injector, the number refers to the cylinder used (1 is on the side with the belts) INOCD- Checks IMO code of the key and activates FLR if correct LG - Ground for battery circuit MAP - Manifold absolute pressure MIL - Motor indication light, this one gives the control engine light (CEL) signal NEP - Signal to engine speedometer PCS - Control solenoid, this one is for the small black cylindric valve on the back of the IM PG - Ground for battery circuit PO2S - Primary oxygen sensor signal PSP. - Power steering switch, not present on all ECU’s SCS - Service connector switch, checks if the SCS connector is hot wired (for reading engine error codes) SG - Ground for 5V circuit, 1 is for the MAP sensor, 2 is for the other sensors STS - Starter switch TDC - Top dead centre, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives four pulses during each cam shaft rotation TPS - Throttle position signal VBU - Back up battery feed, always active (unless battery is removed) VCC - 5V feed, 1 is for the MAP sensor, 2 is for the other sensors VSS - Vehicle speed sensor VTS - VTEC
opis kostki obd2a
Nomenclature: ACC - A/C relay ACS - A/C switch ALTC - Alternator relay, for control purposes, not present on all ECU’s ALTF - Alternator switch BKSW- Brake switch, for control purposes, not present on all ECU’s CKF - Crankshaft speed, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives 12 pulses by LED during each crank shaft rotation, not present on all ECU’s CKP - Crankshaft position, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives several pulses (~20?) during each cam shaft rotation CYP - Cylinder position, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives one pulse during each cam shaft rotation DLC - Diagnostic connector, communication signal to the 3 wire connector next to the SCS connector ECO - ECONOMO light, not present on all ECU’s ECT - Engine coolant temperature EGR - Unknown function (probably related to EGR), not present on all ECU’s ELD - Electric load detection, not present on all ECU’s ESOL - Unknown function (probably OBD1 EGR), not present on all ECU’s FANC - Fan relay, for control purposes, not present on all ECU’s FAS - Completely unknown function to me FLR - Fuel relay IAB - Secondary butterfly valve (B18C4) IACV - Idle air control valve, controls the 2 wire type IACV valve or in case of N and P controls the 3 wire type IACV IAT - Intake air temperature ICM - Ignition pulses, 1 is always present IGP - Battery feed, only active when key is turned IMO. - Checks IMO code of the key and activates FLR if correct INJ - Injector, the number refers to the cylinder used (1 is on the side with the belts) LG - Ground for battery circuit MAP - Manifold absolute pressure MIL - Motor indication light, this one gives the control engine light (CEL) signal PCS - Control solenoid, this one is for the small black cylindric valve on the back of the IM PG - Ground for battery circuit PO2H - Primary oxygen heater switch, not present on all ECU’s PO2S - Primary oxygen sensor signal PSP. - Power steering switch, not present on all ECU’s SCS - Service connector switch, checks if the SCS connector is hot wired (for reading engine error codes) SG - Ground for 5V circuit, 1 is for the MAP sensor, 2 is for the other sensors SO2H - Secondary oxygen heater switch, not present on all ECU’s, position not certain SO2S - Secondary oxygen sensor signal, not present on all ECU’s, position not certain STS - Starter switch TDC - Top dead centre, (P)ulse or (M)ass, gives four pulses during each cam shaft rotation TPS - Throttle position signal VBU - Back up battery feed, always active (unless battery is removed) VCC - 5V feed, 1 is for the MAP sensor, 2 is for the other sensors VSS - Vehicle speed sensor VTM - Oil pressure switch, not present on all ECU’s VTS - VTEC solenoid VTSB - Secondary VTEC solenoid for 3- stage VTEC engines (D15B)
jeszcze raz obd2a
www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd2a.pin.schematics.gif
ogolnie mnustwo tego tu jest.
www.phearable.net/tech/
tylko, ze ja z angielskim kiepsko bardzo... :(
Panowie, nikt sobie przejsciowki nie robil?
o dla zainteresowanych temat innego z kolegow o obd0>obd1
"Konwersje kostek, ( piny sa numerowane kolumnami czyli ): 1 3 5 2 4 6 Pierwsza od lewej jest kostka A patrzac na zlacze komputera , w obd1 nie ma kostki C i nazywa sie ona D OBD-0 --> OBD-1 A01 - INJ #1 --> A01 - INJ #1 A02 - PG1 --> A23 - PG1 A03 - INJ #2 --> A03 - INJ #2 A04 - PG2 --> A24 - PG2 A05 - INJ #3 --> A05 - INJ #3 A06 - PCS --> A20 - PCS A07 - INJ #4 --> A02 - INJ #4 A08 - LOCKSOL --> XXXXXXXXXXX A09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX A10 - EGR CSV--> A11 A11 - IACV --> A09 - IACV A12 - FLR1 --> A07 - FLR1 A13 - IGP1 --> A25 - IGP1 A14 - FLR2 --> A08 - FLR2 A15 - IGP2 --> B01 - IGP2 A16 - GRD --> A26 - LG1 A17 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX A18 - GRD --> B02 - LG2 B01 - VBP --> D01 - VBU B02 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX B03 - ACC --> A15 - ACC B04 - FANC --> A12 - FANC B05 - ALT --> A16 - ALT B06 - MIL --> A13 - MIL B07 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX B08 - ACS --> B05 - ACS B09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX B10 - CYP P --> B11 - CYP P B11 - FUSEBOX--> xxxxxxxxxxxx B12 - CYP M --> B12 - CYP M B13 - FUSEBOX--> B09 - STARTER B14 - ALT --> D09 - ALT B15 - Igniti --> A21 - ICM B16 - VSS --> B10 - VSS B17 - Igniti --> A22 - ICM B18 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX B19 - ELD --> D10 - ELD B20 - SCS --> D04 - SCS C01 - CKP P --> B15 - CKP P C02 - CKP M --> B16 - CKP M C03 - TDC P --> B13 - TDC P C04 - TDC M --> B14 - TDC M C05 - IAT --> D15 - IAT C06 - ECT --> D13 - ECT C07 - TPS --> D11 - TPS C08 - EGR VLS--> D12 C09 - PA --> NOTUSEDXXXXX C10 - BKSW --> D02 - BKSW C11 - MILGRND--> D17 - MAP C12 - SG2 --> D22 - SG2 C13 - VCC1 --> D19 - VCC1 C14 - SG1 --> D21 - SG1 C15 - VCC2 --> D20 - VCC2 C16 - O2S --> D14 - PHO2S Tu jest opis jak zrobic wiazke silnikowa . Wiazke robić sobie na spokojnie i powoli ciagnąc w miare po orginalnych kablach.No i do tego dokładamy 3 kabelki do VTECA i gotowe"
Może to pójście na łatwiznę ale przynajmniej miał byś pewność że samochód odpali nie wywali błędu i co najważniejsze po podłączeniu akumulatora nie spalisz kompa :cool:
http://jarusnet.pl/2012/01/05/przejsciowka-wiazki-obd2a-obd1/ lub
http://jarusnet.pl/2011/08/19/przejsciowka-wiazki-obd2b-obd1/
Oooo. nawet nie kosmicznie drogo.
Choc samemu nadal taniej wyjsc powinno.
A ryzyko zjarania czegos faktycznie jest jesli samemu bede dlubal, szczegulnie teraz gdy nadal nie wiem co robic :(
Ponadto fajnie bylo by samemu cos takiego zrobic :D
Potrzebujesz kostki OBD1, wtyczke komputera OBD2, schemat plus troche kabelków i 2 godziny roboty.
Kostki OBD1 mam jakby co..
Furious. Jesli dobrze kojaze to nawet przejsciowki robisz, zgadza sie?
Nie chce Ci roboty podbierac :P
Ale jesli chce to jakos samemu ogarnac to przydala by sie taka prosa instrukcja jak ta ktora znamazlem dla obd0>obd1
Jesli mozna oczywiscie.
Co do cen kostek to lece na PW.
Zrobić moge, ale wyjdzie to drożej niż kupić gotowego chińczyka.
Instrukcją są diagramy OBD1 i OBD2:
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd1.pin.schematics.gif
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd2a.pin.schematics.gif
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd2b.pin.schematics.gif
czyli wystarczy tak "poprzeplatac" przewody by przwod ktory do tej pory wchodzil do kompa obd2a w pin nr8 kostki A, terac dla kompa obd1 wchodzil w pin nr4 kostki A...
chyba proste w takim razie.
Czy czychaja na mnie jskies pulapki?
W czym lepsza Twoja Furious kostka od chinskiej.
Musze wiedziec bo gdybym polegl w trakcie robienia przejsciowki to wole swojemu dac zarobic jak jakiemus chinolowi.
odgrzeje kotleta. Ulepilem przejsciowke obd2a na 0bd1 i zostal mi jeden niedopasowany przewod, chodzi o pin7 z kosci D obd1 czyli Txd/Rxd diagnostik data link. Jest to do czegos potrzebne? auto chodzi normalnie, czek sie nie swieci
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